31 July 2008
28 July 2008
Don't get me wrong, it is gorgeous. I probably would have gotten in anyway, but it's just not what was represented & it's not what I expected. I'm going to keep it, it's nice.
I can't wait to glue'er down.
27 July 2008
Not a lot of progress on Goldie, but I did fabricate a new piece of aluminum to replace the old one. I really like working with metal! I was surprised that it only took about ten minutes to cut & shape both of them. Good deal. I made them longer so they would reach to the wheel well to protect the wood the whole length. After the ground gets a bit more dry, I'll install them with the new wood.
I received my order from Vintage Trailer Supply. To say the least, I was pleasantly surprised. I ordered: Cone Shaped Hubcaps, 2 packages of Privacy Curtain Carriers, An Exterior Doorstop, and a very much needed Table Mount. I would have absolutely no hesitations about recommending this online store. They were fast & the quality of the products is great. And the price for all of those items, including shipping? $68.17
Last night my friend Kim invited me to scrap at her friends house. I guess this is a monthly thing & I'd been invited before, but never went for one reason or another. Boy, have I been missing out!! These women were AWESOME. I hope I get invited back.
I'm making a gift album for the new Happy Couple in Maine. My cousin is getting married next month & I've had this book I made in a Donna Downey class more than a year ago. I loved the book, but didn't have "the right use" for it. It's a book that's meant for lumpy things, because the spine is large & there's plenty of room for tons of ephemera. You can view a slideshow of the album, if you like. I still have about 20 pages to embellish... I hope they like it.
25 July 2008
I certainly didn't want to get persnickety about truly vintage or museum accurate restoration, I wanted to remain faithful to a late 1960's feel.
I wanted to avoid something that stood out and overpowered the whole look of the trailer. For instance, I didn't want to walk in & see a "black hole" in my dinette or counter tops. At the same time, I didn't want it to disappear. I wanted somewhat neutral, but not bland. That is why I didn't choose number's 5, 6, or 9.
I wanted something that wasn't in everyone else's trailer... which is why I didn't choose number's 5, 6, or 8. I really loved #8, but I'd heard that that pattern has been heavily used in Airstream Travel Trailers. Ok. Bummer.
It had to coordinate with my flooring as well as my walls. Which is why I didn't choose number's 1, 2, or 3.
I haven't decided on any coordinating colors for my black & white, which is why I didn't choose number's 10, 11, 12, or 13.
While I love checkers, I think 6"x6" checkered floor, along with a 2"x2" checkered table & counter top would have just been too much. That's why I didn't choose number 7. Or number 9 because it's somewhat a checkered look.
I'm a Sister so I really wanted to pick number's 13 or 14. But, I didn't. The ONLY reason I didn't pick 13 or 14 (and it would have been 14!!!) was because it would have been prohibitively expensive for me right now. It would have topped over $250 for the one sheet of 4'x8' laminate in the Zebra pattern I really wanted.
However, when I get my Shasta canned ham I will pick whatever I want, regardless of price. That will be a camper for me. This camper is more for me & my family.
So, now in case you didn't figure it out, I've chosen number four. I think this leaves me plenty of choices for my fabric, it won't overpower the look of the camper, it won't look like a black hole, & if you ask me, it looks like it could be possible that this was something from the 60's.
I put the order in at Lowe's the day before yesterday. They told me it would take about a week. It came yesterday. I was shocked! I can't wait to do that countertop!
22 July 2008
Here were the ones that I really liked. It might be hard to tell, but #5 is a boomerang pattern. I don't want to give away what I've selected, or which I preferred or which one I REALLY wanted. To see the image larger, click on it.
I've created a poll and I want you to tell me which one you'd select, keeping in mind the "parameters" I used during the selection process. They are:
- I don't plan on selling this trailer for many, many years. If I do get rid of it, it will only be because I've found the perfect canned ham Shasta. Most likely, this will be given to my daughter.
- Even though I love the style of the 50's, I wanted to remain faithful to the period of the late '60's, which is what my trailer is.
- While I don't need everything matchy-match, I certainly want everything to coordinate.
- My drawer pulls are pictured here.
- My flooring is 6"x6" black & white checkered, laid (the proper verb conjugation of "lay" has always eluded me, sorry) on the diagonal. This is not something I want to change.
- I wanted my counterops to be more of a background element, rather than a bold element.
- I've been called "eccentric" more than once.
- I want my fabrics to be the bold elements. They are far more easily changeable.
Ok, I could go on (of course!), but I don't want to give anything away. I'll reveal* what I've chosen later. Please make your selection in the new "Countertop Poll" I've created.
Please leave a comment if you wish. I love getting comments.
In case you're interested, there's another poll about YOU and your Vintage Trailering. Hurry up, only 735 more days to vote!!!
*Isn't that cute how I think people care what I'm doing in my trailer?!
21 July 2008
Just like the rest of the trailer, my stove is a rusty mess. I'll definitely either be buying a new one or, and this is highly doubtful, bringing this one back to life. I have no idea where to start. This is so utterly disgusting, I don't know if it's even worth trying.
This is another project I'd been "saving" because there was "mice evidence" in there, too, just like the front street side.
Has anyone ever seen a range this bad?
Anyway, there were six screws holding it in. There were four under the range hood on the sides, going into the countertop & two more, one on each side, inside the door to the oven. Oh, and there was also a ton of sticky grease for a good, solid adhesion. to the countertop.
19 July 2008
Goldie's rear-end, like many 40+ year old women, had a bit of a sag. We tugged & propped, lifted & tucked. You can see here how the trunk door is sitting on the frame & the skin was being crushed underneath. The trunk frame should not be doing that. The skin in the rear should be just skimming the steel frame. Sorry for the poor quality photo. I didn't take a pic of it previous to fixing it, so I had to search for a pic that included the crushed trunk.
Making everything just a tad more complicated, the Loflyte has an obtuse angle in the middle of the wall. Unfortunately, there was no wood left from which to make a template. So, we energetically "discussed" the reassemble.
It was tough, though. He makes his living building. How can I argue with 30+ years experience? Except home building is different from travel trailer building. I've only seen pictures & video's about how others have gone about restoring their Shasta. In the end, we came to some great decisions, I think.
Beneath the ¾" ply floor on each edge is a heavy-duty piece of wood that provides support & a place to screw in the walls.
We didn't have a level floor, so that's where we needed to start. We measured the distance from skin to skin (beyond the studs) & cut a 2x6 to fit that length & gingerly put it between the wooden frame, a tiny fraction of an inch away from each side of the skin.
Looking straight down, this is a Photomerged pic of what we rigged to help us accomplish a level floor:
Those two pieces needed to raised to the level of the steel frame. We used a C-Clamp to bring up the two boards to level.
Once that was completed our next job was the raise the walls, thus raising the rear & fixing the sag. Using small blocks of 1x2's we temporarily propped up the wall. To do this, we found the lowest wall stud that wasn't rotten, & used the simple wedge & lever technique to lift the wall to the proper, level position.
Overall, we're pretty darned pleased with a job well done today.
17 July 2008
Can you think of a better way to wake up every morning? I sure can't :)
16 July 2008
I'm celebrating this milestone with a Jack Daniel's Lynchburg Lemonade. I just about never drink. I can count on both hands how many drinks I have per year. My favorite drink is a dry Gin & Tonic (Bombay Sapphire ONLY). I know it's an old Lady drink, but I like to do old Lady things like knit & sew and "set outdoors" as my Grammy calls it.
Tomorrow will be a clean-up day. I'll steel wool the weird little things on the inside of the skin. Just weird little hangy things... I dunno... I'll shine some more aluminum, I'll Shop-Vac the crevices. It'll be a wonderful dust-mask free day!
OH!! I'm so super excited because the Shasta does NOT smell anymore! There is no "odor". Thank goodness, because I was really getting worried that it would never go away. It didn't wanna make ya gag or anything. I just wouldn't wanna spend a lot of time in a place that smelled like that.
I started to wonder today if I'd get everything back together the right way. LOL A little late?
I'm ¾ of the way done with my drink & I feel completely buzzed. I shit you not.
15 July 2008
I've been accused of being simple. I won't deny it. Here ya go, I'll defend it. Look how reflections amuse me:
But, it really was a beautiful day. My fingers tend to "sausage out" in the humidity. I inhereted that wonderful trait from my Grammy. Thanks, Gram :)
Ok, back to blogger business. Today I was a busy bee. I did some aluminum cleaning, buffing & polishing.
I made steel wool pads into little piles of pokey, painful shards........Before.........20 Minutes of Steel Wool......After Polishing
My front window is terribly oxidized. The aluminum is pitted. It almost looked dirty because of the amount of oxidation. That's not mud! The before is on the left. The center is after about 20 minutes of rubbing with #0000 steel wool & the right is after a polishing with Mother's Polish.
Polishing has become my favorite part of restoring Goldie. It's almost a meditative thing. I sit alone (cuz heaven knows my teenage helper thinks it's like, um totally boring?) and gently buff the aluminum, watching the lively glow return. Then, the exciting part. I get to polish. An amazing shine emerges! I actually have to restrain myself from using the polish. I don't want to have to polish aluminum twice (even though I love it), so I do my best to wait until they're ready to be re-installed. It's a process that has an almost immediate gratification. Isn't that what human beings crave? ...... ....... ........ ...... .......
14 July 2008
If you take only one thing away from this blog, it should be this: When renovating/restoring/rehabbing/changing the curtains/whatever (!!) a vintage travel trailer; everything single thing inside is absolutely, without a doubt, connected to the next. Ok, the only possible exception to this rule could be the door.
Originally the plan was start in the back. Gut the back, re-frame the back, re-panel the back. Followed by the Center, then finally the front. This was the only spot that remained to be gutted. The street side front corner was very badly rotted, due to the mice that lived there. They certainly made a "network" up there. The wood is compost. For those reasons, I'd been avoiding that corner. "Saving" it, if you will.
This particular window really fought me. It took me about an hour to get out. The screws were insanely rusty & the putty was super-sticky. I even had to recruit my older helper. She was thrilled and eager to help. Not!
Anyone that's done a renovation or restored a vintage camper knows things rarely go as planned. And... even though I didn't think it would happen to me, (yeah, really) it has.
I've been waiting a couple, few weeks (I try not to keep track) for Dear Ol' Dad to help out with the back end walls. It just ain't hap'nin. While I don't want to nag, I also don't want to sit... ...and wait to do more work.
I've wasted some time lallygagging & "relaxing". Now I'm ready to work. LOTS. And for several hours a day. Daily. When it doesn't rain of course. We're expecting clear(ish) skies tomorrow & most of Wednesday, then clear again until at least Friday.
Yesterday, I decided that I would finish ripping out the paneling that I'd put off previously. See, in the front, as well as the back & above the kitchen sink, there are long windows which are approximately six feet long. Because of the span, the aluminum "trim" on the inside has two or three staples under the frame that keeps the trim from slipping out from underneath the window. You can see this trim in the above picture.
In order to remove the paneling, I have to remove the trim. In order to remove the trim without damaging it, I have to remove the window to get at the staples. I was delaying removing the other windows for the obvious reason of water leakage! The back window is already out, so it must be tarped whenever there is a possibility of rain. I just didn't want more potential water entry points.
You may be wondering, what's the big whoop? Take the window out & then just put it in. Well, to make a long story even longer... It's not a big whoop to remove a window. Really. It's not even a big whoop to put it back. It's quite easy. It's probably the easiest job on the whole camper!
When you remove a window, you have a very large window hole. Every time you take a screw out & put another one back in, you're going to stretch the screw hole a little bit. Not only that, you can't reuse the butyl tape ($5 per 50/ft roll), so you're not only wasting time & stretching the aluminum, you're wasting resources. I try to be as green as possible, while using as little green as possible :)
Before you just stick the window back in, you need to do repairs to the framing (and you know I have a lot!) and install the paneling. All of these little hitches would be avoided if I just had a covered, dedicated workspace.
I'd also prefer that the windows be out while I paint the outer skin. I have to be realistic, though. I'll have to tape around them, or paint Goldie now. I can't imagine painting her now... but? Who knows? It would be the perfect time! [The wheels are now spinning!!] I would need to do a bit of body work before I painted her...
A while back I purchased steel screws with a nickel coating. Those will rust over time. One thousand screws were only $15. A great deal, but I would have to either paint the screw heads (yuck) or replace them again in a couple of years (double yuck).
I need about 750 screws, which is quite a large quantity. I've priced them out retail and the cheapest I could find them was about $175. I've managed to get them wholesale, and cut the price nearly in half. I'll get 800 screws for about $92. Thanks again to my Father being the the construction biz. Thanks, Dad!
Tomorrow I will remove that little bit of paneling and fiberglass insulation, therefore ending my affair with dust mask. Pity.
On the super-exciting note, I was able to work in my camper barefoot!!! I love being barefoot. It's a simple pleasure of mine & I relish it.
If I have enough daylight & energy left after removing the last bit of paneling, I'll polish that front window & drip rail. I'm excited to see how they turn out!
09 July 2008
and after gently rubbing with #0000 steel wool, ended up like this:
It took seven hours for a six foot long window. I did the outside & the inside. I did not use the Mothers Polish yet. I'm going to wait until they're ready to be installed before I polish them.
I absolutely love aluminum. It oxidizes over the years, but will polish up like new with a little elbow grease. I'm so pleased with my ol' lady, Goldie.
It never even rained today :)
08 July 2008
As a matter o' fact, I may just skip the nomination & jump right to the Life Membership for this particular man. And I assure you, it was a man... LOL I mean, if he were here right now, I'd walk up to him & say, "Dude, did ya ever hear of Brylcreem? Well, they had this little slogan, 'A little dab'll do ya!' K?" Better yet, "If you can't do it right, don't do it at all."
I mean, come on... TAR???
While this may not look heinous, believe you me, it was awful. I cannot even imagine people who've tarred the whole roof!! O my heavens.
Ok, enough hating on the poor guy :)
As you may know, I'm a scrapper. I'm no stranger to a heat gun. However, this heat gun would possibly heat my entire house in the dead of winter in under a minute. This ain't no crafty cute heat gun. This is a manly melt-your-quad-from-your-femur heat gun. We're talkin' major British Thermal Units!
You'll need to gather a few things to remove the tar. First, you'll need a heat gun. Go big or go home. This little craft Heat Gun will simply not do. The tar will come up easier with more heat. But be careful because as good ol' Dad says, "It'll burst into flames."
I have also, up until this point, failed to tell you that I'm absolutely petrified of heights. The height of Goldie requires me to be up about five feet off the ground. Mind you, I get dizzy while standing on an eight inch step. Changing light bulbs in my living room can be a white knuckled experience.
Because of this, scraping the tar posed a challenge. I had to be about 5 feet up on an A-frame ladder. For some reason, I was wearing clogs. (?) Uh, yeah... so I misfired a couple of times & burned myself. I hastily bandaged one, it'll probably scar. The other one looks like a Lyme Disease bulls-eye. Fun!
You'll also need a plastic scraper. I think a metal scraper would damage the [fairly] delicate aluminum. Oh, use a scraper you never want to see again. You'll need a scrap of wood. I used some paneling that I ripped out of the inside. It should be sturdy so you can scrape the tar onto it. Also, you'll need rags that you'd otherwise throw away. Lastly, a pair of safety glasses & gloves might not be a bad idea. And... kiss your manicure goodbye (see pics above).
This is the aluminum cap that goes over the vent hole. There are four clips that keep the cap on. Gently bend all four clips up & carefully remove the cap. If you snap off the clips, you'll be quite sad.
Here's how I cleaned up the blessed tar:
- Heat the tar to be removed. You may perceive a slight physical change in appearance. Do not over heat. [see paternal direction, above]
- Use plastic scraper to remove excess tar. You will probably need to do this several times to the same spot.
- Scrape removed tar onto scrap wood.
- Repeat steps 1-3 ad naseum, or until physically exhausted, thus unable to continue.
- Once you can see the metal, you'll still have a residue. Heat the residue around the screws & wipe off with rags you never want to see again. Before you wipe, make sure you aim the heat gun in another direction. Duh? Probably... but... ya know...
- Remove all the screws once you've cleaned around them. The one good thing about the tar is the screws will still be as perfectly preserved.
Once the vent is removed, continue to heat & wipe away the tar with a rag. It's very easy to do. The heat gun also warms up the butyl tape so that can be cleanly wiped away. This is good to know for the rest of my seams, as the tape is quite hard & brittle.
Blog more later? We shall see!
07 July 2008